My Oil Lab
My mini-lab with a hood and very rapid air exchange to prevent any explosion or implosion. It’s my therapy room.
Soaking Process
All FECO/RSO is made with all organic homegrown flowers that have been tripled washed and dried. We dry the material to a point that is almost too dry becasue we want the least amount of moisture so it does not dilute our alcohol. I do not buy anything from anyone, because I give this medicine to my wife, family and friends. We wash because when you make oil, “everything” becomes concentrated.
*** VERY IMPORTANT TO NOTE *** Therefore any THC and foreign matter such as fats, lipids, chlorophyll, feces and chemicals will be concentrated.
All material are soaked with organic grade alcohol ranging from 190-200 USP. Yes, we do check the proof.
– we freeze alcohol and material(if there is cooler space) one day prior to soaking. – 35 Degrees or colder. -65 is ideal, but you need a lab freezer. * (make sure you have enough for 2 batches)
– we mix the frozen alcohol to the dry material. * alcohol will be thicker than milk.(don’t be alarmed if your bottle seem like it has less or loss. That is just the alcohol molecules shrinking due to the cold climate). Let it sit inside teh freezer for 24 hours.
– pour and strain the alcohol through a series of filters and finishing off at 25 micron or smaller.
– That is the first soak solution, now take the extra cold alcohol you have in the freezer and mix with the dry material for a second 24 hour soak in the freezer.
– pour and strain the alcohol through a series of filters and finishing off at 25 micron or smaller.
** A third soak is optional if you want every last bit of benefit from the plants such as chlorophyll, fats, lipids, but will be lower THC. Otherwise very good for our body.
Filter / Straining
Pour and strain the alcohol through a series of filters 250 micron, 150 micron, 100 micron and finishing off at multiple 25 micron or smaller. The goal is to remove “ALL” solid and visible debris before warming up to separate cannabinoids, terpenes and alcohol.
Separating Alcohol & Oil
My method is similar to the standard water distillation devices such as the GOM (Green Oil Machine), but more robust, advance, efficient and precise. All in all, by far the best method out there without spending tens and even hundreds of thousands of dollars.
PART 1
– The pot I use are Hawkins(USA), implosion proof (by design) and unlikely to explode. Material is stainless steel.
– The reclaiming tube is an innovation that I had come up with.
*** I will be making a kit for people to modify themselves but use copper pipes and PC fan instead of the glass condenser(brittle).
– The heating source I use is any induction heater, since there is absences of spark(ignition).
– I also use NSF food grade silicon grease to coat the outer layer of the O-rings (to extend the life, but replacements 0-rings are $10).
– start off by heating the pot to maximum 460 Deg. F. ***** ONLY until to the point where the pot feels warm. I use a piece of green painters tape and temperature gun to monitor internal temperatures ****, then reduce the temperature to 250 Deg. F.
– in a 10L Hawkins (8 Liters max. capacity), the reclaim rate is about 1000 mL per 14 minutes @ 250 Deg. F. setpoint.
– this will run about 110 minutes once reclaim starts.
PART 2
– I finish off the alcohol purge in a vacuum state; This mean I can remove all residual alcohol @ less than 60 Degrees Celsius.
END RESULT --- FECO! The best medicine.
All FECO/RSO batch of oil is made with the corresponding cultivar and mixed oils are marked as “HYBRID”. All oil are purged of alcohol in a vacuum and at lower temperatures. ** Being in a vacuum state alters the freezing and boiling points of the material within. In our case, it lowers the boiling point of alcohol to less than 60 Degrees Celcius.”
